Tuesday, March 14, 2017


Hi, all!
Things stay hectic in real life but I finally had time to show these to you.

16 gauge wire works best for these but 18 will work. Any kind will do.
Shape your legs in any fashion you like. I usually make three. You could do four, but, I myself can never get them even.
You will also need:
SUPER Glue (cyanoacrylate)
Woodsies circles. Woodsies brand won't warp as bad as the bargain brand from Hobby Lobby. If you are making it distressed, though, the cheaper ones will work very well.
Stain or paint for the seat pieces.
Screws, nuts and washers for the mechanical part (make sure the screw head is flat)
Paper strips 1/8 inch wide (reinforcement for the tops of the legs around the nut and for the back brace assembly under the seat)
e-beads for the feet (optional) if using 16 gauge wire, 18 gauge needs a larger bead hole
(could also use dots of hot glue on a non-stick surface, doing one leg at a time, let the glue dot cool and harden around the tip of the leg)

Make your legs any shape and length using your chosen size of wire. 1 and 1/2 inch is a good length.

You can really see the warping on a couple of these seats. I used the Hobby Lobby brand of wood circles. Looks pretty good for old and aged look.
This is the package I purchased at Lowe's. The one I bought several months back had washers in it, too.

The picture above and the one below shows how I superglued the legs onto the edge of the nut and then wrap several times with the paper strips to make it stronger. Add more super glue to harden, not a lot, though, as you don't want to get it on the inside of the nut. That will keep your seat screw from turning and make it impossible to get it started in the hole. The nuts are six sided so you just glue a leg on every other flat side. If you can get a package of screws and nuts with the flat washers you can place the washer on the top of the assembly to give it a finished look and hide the tops of the legs. When you are done with assembly and the glue has dried, paint and finish with your desired color and aging process.
Don't place seat screw into the nut until after the glue and paint is dry. You can age it afterwards with acrylic paint if you want and then twist the seat up and down to keep it from drying in the grooves therefore keeping the seat immovable.

Make a circle of wire the same size as your should fit on the sides of the legs as shown.
I try to make sure I glue it with the ends of the circle over one of the legs.

I also formed a back rest with a piece of the wire and glued it under the edge of the seat. Be sure to paint your wire before assembling. I glued tiny strips of paper over the ends of the wire to reinforce. Then I stained them with wood stain.

The tiny oval wood piece came from the bag of Woodsies.
(By the way, the large teardrop shapes make good ceiling fan blades)

The two pictures below show the size of the wood pieces I used and gluing the screw under the seat.

If there are any questions or something that is not understood, please do comment.
Have a great day!

Friday, January 20, 2017

These pans are a bit large for 12th scale but still can be used as a dish pan or wash pan.

We visit Cracker Barrel restaurant occasionally and I always get extra jam/jelly.

They are great for crafting these little jewels!

I start by tacking the pans to a piece of card with some double sided tape and spray paint the insides white. Two to three coats usually, drying well in between (the most difficult part is waiting!)

When dry, turn them over and tack them to the tape upside down. Paint with your choice of acrylic paints, two to three coats, of course, drying well in between. Splatter with black acrylic and a brush by drawing your finger over a paint loaded brush. (Use gloves to do this part)

After all is VERY dry, spray on a clear acrylic gloss. Then add a black trim edging with a Sharpie marker.

Heat a straight pin and punch a hole in one edge for hanging.

As you can see, I rusted the orange pan with brown and rusty reddish acrylic paints.

The last picture shows an aluminum finish done by painting just the inside with Tim Holtz/Adirondak Alcohol Ink in silver.

Hope everyone is well!

New projects to share!

I know I haven't posted in a long while.
Hubby requires more care and I still work a full time job so that leaves little time for my hobbies.

Pyrex ware is made from plastic packaging that hubby's meds come in. only a few of the indents work for my project. Look at all you packaging before you dispose of it and see if you can use portions before recycling.

I used various nail polishes and coated with a clear coat. I painted the insides with several coats of white first. Let dry well between coats. Use nail art decals to add designs to your dishes or just leave plain.

For clear dishes I have used the epoxy resin in the small tubes that have to be cured with a UV light but sometimes it gets too hot and distorts the plastic.
Sally Hansen Clear Gel coat in the black bottle will work without a light. Just be careful to not go over the same area again and again with the brush or you build up too many bubbles.

This design is hand drawn with a white gel ink pen. My first try! With care and practice it would look a lot better. The camera picks up all flaws, too! Nothing is perfect and I did have fun making these. Experiment and enjoy!


Friday, May 6, 2016

 Here's a short tutorial for faux alligator texture for mini suitcases, etc.

You will need:
Cardboard item (Suitcase, Hatbox, Trunk)
(I cut out a suitcase pattern (found online) from shirt cardboard or cereal box will work, too)
Any Brown color acrylic paint, watered down to make a thin glaze (about half paint, half water)
Glossy Accents, Mod Podge, Judikins Diamond Glaze, or similar
Brownish Sharpie marker
Alcohol Swabs or Alcohol and Kitchen paper towel
Picture from internet of alligator skin/hide

Start by assembling your item then add a wash of your brown acrylic paint. Don't use too much or your card will warp. (You could paint it then weight it before you assemble)
You don't want this to be a really dark color as this will show through the Glossy Accents later.

When dry, follow picture of alligator hide and dot on your Glossy Accents with a light hand to get small irregular dots all over.
For the larger bumps in the center add a line down the center of each dot after they are dry.
Let all of this dry very well.

Go over the whole object with the brown Sharpie. After this dries rub lightly with your alcohol swabs to remove the marker from the tops of the Glossy Accent dots. The Sharpie marker will stay on the card in between and you are left with a realistic gator hide look.
Depending on how your card soaks up the marker and how dark you may want those areas in between the dots you may need to repeat the layers of marker and wiping with alcohol. Also, color between the dots with your marker.